How not to hike the Fish River Canyon

I recently did the fish. I can only conclude from what I found that:


1. Many people hiking the Fish are not genuine hikers and should not be allowed there.
2. Many people hiking the Canyon are Pigs.
3. Many people hiking the Canyon are incredibly stupid.

It is only the middle of the 2008 hiking season in the Canyon and already it's foul and extensively littered.
A huge part of that litter is tin foil! Ja, it's lekker to braai every night and then leave your foil in the ashes of your fire. Maybe you really did not notice that the foil had not burnt away to nothing overnight!. But, if by what would be most people's camping spots average their 4th night in the Canyon, one still finds foil in the remains of fires you can only conclude that people are either very unobservant or plain stupid.

Foil does not burn..........neither do foil packages for energy bars and tuna sachets.

In fact, ordinary paper won't burn if placed on cold ashes left over from the night before. And believe it or not, someone had very conscientiously placed their papers on a dead and cold fire. To do what, I wonder.

Some people go through the motions by scraping some sand over their tins, old gas cannisters, styrofoam packaging, plastic bags, etc., etc. Others just couldn't give a 'hoot'......why go to all that bother? They just chuck it all behind a bush.

It's also nice not to extinguish your fire. I came across what had once been a huge log and was now just a line of ash attached to a still smouldering 'stump'. I had camped about 300m from this spot. I know there was nobody there on that night. Conclusion - The wood had been left to smoulder for an entire day. Apart from possible injury to other hikers or animals from the smouldering log, no consideration was given to other hikers later in the season when wood is in short supply and hard to find.

And then there is the toilet paper.......you are supposed to burn it or at least bury it along with "your business". You are not supposed to leave it artfully strewn about the veldt like some neon flashing sign stating how proud you are that you have successfully mastered the art of 'Shitting in the Woods". If you need to brag about that, well then you are are an amateur.

The kiosk at the cause way was the worst. Here it appeared that 'hikers' were so ecstatic at seeing a building in the wilderness that they just could not control themselves........they just could not wait.......they just had to do their thing right there in the open without delay!!

One person must have really had it bad.......they appear, by the shredded space blanket, bottle of body cream, sun tan lotion and other litter, to have got so excited that they just tipped their whole pack out and left the contents there.

On day 1, I passed a sleeping bag forgotton at a dirty camp site. Are these hikers?

On day 2, I passed a pair of Hi Tech PCT's , left proudly on display so that all could see how this brave person had removed the boot laces but abandoned the boots as the soles had come off. You twat. Don't you know that what you take in must also be taken out - broken or not? And this despite having to fill in a declaration at the Park's Office that you would not litter and despite the big sign in the same regard at the start of the hike.

A really brilliant one was the person who had obviously lost a sandal at one point - fine, that was an accident. But at what was obviously their next break and swimming spot, the loss must have been discovered because now the matching sandal was left hanging in a tree!

Sulpher springs is also great. You take a seat to dip your toes in the hot water and find yourself surrounded by cigarette stompies and used plasters.

Then there is the woman........I guess it was a woman......who used lillette wipes instead of toilet paper. The wipe was left pinned under a stone over the wet spot and its packaging just abondoned next to this marker. Man....whoops......sorry, I mean woman. If you took as much care of the canyon as you do of your fanny then the Fish River would be a much nicer and cleaner place!

What are my suggestions regarding all this?

Namibia Wildlife should take an inventory of the contents of each and every hikers pack. If the appropriate waste/litter/refuse is then not produced at the end of the trail for inspection before disposal, then there should be a stiff fine for each item not produced. N$500 per item would not be unreasonable...........and hey! it could create jobs and boost Park funds.

All in all though........it wasn't a bad hike.
 
Mac

Barrett’s Coaches to Wattles and back to Barretts.

Up bright and early and raring to go, the weather, fortunately, played along and it was a lovely cool and overcast day. The probability of it remaining so was very slim so with impatience much stomping around was done until all were ready to depart. (This is what happens when you decide to give up tea and coffee and so you have nothing left to do in the mornings besides have breakfast and pack your bag.) Cars were parked at the Berlin Forest Station and off we went.

As with all plantation walks there is often walking on the road, which has always been my pet hate on hikes (I have lots of others but non-hiking related). Fortunately we didn’t have far to walk on the road before we veered across an open veldt and from there into the pine plantation for a short distance. Upon leaving the pine plantation you descend alongside the plantation down a rocky path. Markers aren’t too great so you need to keep a watch for when the markers veer off towards the right half way down, across a boulder strewn area before plunging into a beautiful lush green indigenous forest.

The trail undulates downhill, quite steeply in some places, for quite a distance – or so my knees told me. On reaching the bottom you then cross over a small gurgling stream before the extremely arduous ascent – in other words, you had to grab on to trees to haul your backside up that gorge - until you reach the top of the escarpment where you flop down onto your back, take a couple of deep breathes and ask yourself why you are punishing your body this way. (Remember this section well, because this is the section you do on the return journey and I swear it feels even worse coming back).

When you get to the stage where you are ready to move on, you look along the vista and then you realize that in order for your soul to be refreshed, your body has to be put through some form of punishment. Man oh man, what a view. You can’t get that type of view sitting in a car racing down the highway, or even taking the back roads. You have to walk, and climb and suffer, and I have never yet known it to be a disappointment. The body pain goes away but the memories linger on making it worthwhile – every step of pain (Ok,ok. I’m exaggerating slightly. Can’t be that painful, if there are so many hikers out there and doing it regularly).

From there on the trail undulates for quite a distance, actually a helleva long distance, along the escarpment. A couple of sections are badly marked so a close watch needs to be kept otherwise you find yourself bundu bashing backwards and forwards looking for the trail, which is not only time consuming but energy draining. One of the reasons why it is an advantage to always walk at the back. By the time you have reached the group they have done all the bundu bashing and are back on the right path so you are able to conserve what little energy you do have left. (Not much at this stage what with racing along the escarpment and the sun beating down on your head).

I wouldn’t advise planning on eating lunch at Starvation Creek Falls unless you are a runner or you are planning a late lunch although your stomach might dictate otherwise but there are some nice areas along the escarpment where you can sit and recuperate a while before heading on. Once Starvation Creek is reached you veer away from the escarpment, and ascend alongside the plantation for a short distance before turning into the plantation And then starts the painful, agonizing energy sucking climb through the plantation. It’s not a steep climb, just one of those climbs that seem never ending and seems to suck the life right out of you but you can’t understand why because it’s not quite flat but neither is it steep.

Not having much choice at this stage you put one foot in front of the other and plod on, and on, and on, and on, and on. Shew, lots of “on’s” there. Totally exhausted you reach the top and behold, before you is the farmhouse. What a magnificent sight. With renewed energy you manage to drag yourself to the front steps but that is as far as you get before collapsing in a heap. To hell with finding a bed, I need to get these shoes off. I need a cigarette. I need a Jacuzzi. I need an ice cold drink. I need a masseuse. I need some gorgeous hunk telling me not to worry, he’ll carry me back to Barretts. Fat chance of that happening.

So you do what you can. Take your shoes off, have a smoke – conveniently forgetting that all the way there you swore you would give up smoking – and relax. After a gloriously hot shower and feeling like a brand new, albeit sore, person you reflect back on the hike - the beautiful green moss growing on the rocks and the old man’s beard dangling from the trees. The tiny flowers and the colourful grass. The butterflies dancing ahead of you and the wild plums. The aloes that look like they are welcoming you with open arms (if you are falling from the sky) and the rock formations – So much beauty, so much to take in. And then you feel invigorated. Not enough to go back on the trail, but just enough to get you through dinner before passing out for a deep dreamless sleep. (Hopefully with your mouth closed and no unearthly noises coming from your nasal passages).

Up bright and early the next day you watch the sun peeking over the tree tops. In my opinion there is only one thing to beat a sunrise and that is a sunset. But either way, they are both beautiful and you feel refreshed and ready to face the return journey – until you pick up your back pack and wonder why you carried all the stuff considering you didn’t use half of it. (Some of us just never learn).

Heading out the gate on the right side of the house you follow the road alongside the plantation and then veer off to the left until you reach a crossroad. This is where we came a little unstuck. Nary a marker to be spotted we, myself included, went first up one road and then another road and then back again and back up the first road until, perchance, a marker was noticed hidden on the rocks amongst the tall grass. So now you know. You don’t go along either of the roads but head along the only section that is veldt and pick up the markers there which, takes you to a concrete road. Another one of those energy sucking up hills that never seem to end and which just go on and on and on and on and on. Phew, so early in the morning and all your energy is already being sucked out of you.

Upon reaching the top, you then veer off across the veldt where you can take a breather (or for smokers, a couple of breathers) amongst some lovely rocks before continuing alongside the pine plantation before ascending once again into the plantation. At least this time it is not one of those energy sucking up hills. Steeper yes, but easier. From there the trail splits. One section towards Kaapschehoop and the other towards Barretts. The trail to Barretts continues across the veldt through some boulders strewn here and there

For the life of me I can't remember the trail from here on out so had to finish this with the help of Sue Desmond. Thanks Sue.

From Barretts you walk gradually up hill to the edge of the escarpment and along the escarpment to the top of the waterfalls, then through the forest to a river with lots of tree ferns and shortly thereafter you come to the Wattles house.

From Wattles you head out on the opposite side of the house the markers are not great but the trail leads off left of the tree line. You then come to a road that is used to get to a building or masts (I can’t quite remember). You take this road for a short distance, the trail is well marked from there (mainly in open grass and rocks along an escarpment. When the trail goes into the trees you will come to the junction to Barretts and Kaapschehoop. It is mainly forest from there.

Bald Ibis Overnight Trail

Date: June 2002

Weather: Cold during the day making for a lovely hike but very chilly in the evening.

Boy oh boy. This is a hike of note. Before anybody intends doing the Naukluft this is a good one to do, to prepare themselves. When leaving base camp you immediately start climbing. First gradually and then it becomes pretty steep.

The trail then takes you along the contour path, just below the craggy rocks, through indigenous forests, down gulleys, up ravines for quite a distance. Doesn't sound like much but all those up's and down's are quite exhausting. You pass windy corner, which is very aptly named, so be careful, very, very careful. (One of our party - I won't mention names - tried to take a header downhill.)


You continue further along before heading down the mountain at a moderate angle, across the valley and through the Black Wattle Forest. It is at this point that you must decide whether you are going to drag a branch with you all the way to the cave for a fire or drop off your back pack and return when you have energized yourself. (If you are lucky, the group ahead of you, took enough firewood to last the evening) .

From there you start climbing quite steeply for a short distance before it peters out to a gradual climb until finally, eventually and at long last you reach the overnight cave.


The trail back wasn't very well marked, so the various groups all went their own way. You started off with a relatively steep descent and from there the path undulated for quite a distance, past some huge and beautiful rock formations, before heading down to base camp.


My thoughts
Although a very looooooong and strenuous hike, it was absolutely great, with lots of variety. The steep climbs, the beautiful forests, the slippery downhills, the magnificent rocks and of course, windy corner. Even walking across the grassland from one mountain to another was a welcome relief from all the ups and downs. And we musn't forget about carrying your fire wood with you the last 3km's. A really superb hike and one I will hopefully be able to do again, although this time I think I will give the firewood a miss.(Firewood? If memory serves me correctly, I think I managed to carry a twig.)

Alexandria Trail

Start of the Alexandria trail is at Langebos Hut. A stone hut with basic amenities. Sleeps 12 people in 2 rooms each with 3 double bunks. There are mens and ladies showers (cold water only) and flush loos. Braai area is a bit of a mess. No grill for braaing. Parks Board chappie came around and classed us all in general ( footprinters) as "Oh that bunch
!"---booking story I presume. You can leave your cars overnight at Langebos hut but they must be moved in the morning to the office area where there is a watchman. Not too far from the start which is at the hut.


DAY 1
Left at 7.20am. Lovely walk through Afro-Montane forest. Forest giants dripping with 'old man's beard' Saw 3 pairs of Knysna Loeries, also vervet monkeys near the 'Waterboom'. Easy walking. Lots of ducking in Spider Alley. (Golden Orbs- BIG ONES). Poor Rob copped them first. Saw a glimpse of a grey bushbuck. About 3 hours walking to the edge of the forest then 10-15 min's through paddocks and onto the road. This takes you past Woody Cape Resort. Here you take a side path to the right then left along the fence then onto a wooden boardwalk which brings you out on the beach. It was a lovely, lovely day! No wind.
Saw a dead Dolphin on the beach and blue bottles being eaten by snail looking things. We reached the beach at about 11.15. The dunes are spectacular and we saw a fish eagle perched on top of one of them. Had lunch on the beach, lovely. Just past our lunch spot we found 2 freshwater springs on the beach. Reached the rope ladder at about 13.30. Wow Aileen, I wouldn't try this one if I was you. VERY scary! 2 of the rungs were broken making the ascent even harder. If the wind was blowing it must be a nightmare. Bit of dune walking on the top of the sand cliffs.



This eventually becomes coastal bush and you continue along here on a bit of a loop and thence to the hut. Trail is fairly well marked. Reached the hut at about 15.00.Very nice hut. Also sleeps 12. Most mattresses have no covers but the hut is clean and has a broom. The verandah is a threat to life and limb (floorboards rotting but to be replaced April 2004.) Lots of bird life at hut, also saw a whale and plenty of dolphins. Lovely view from verandah of the 3 islands, one of which has a lighthouse. Tried to find the path to the wreck but it was so overgrown we gave up.
TO USE THE LOO
Knock first so spiders do not get a fright when you open the door. Allow spiders time to exit, flick up lid and step back quickly! If nothing with more than 2 eyes looks back at you it's safe to sit!



Left at 6.30. Easy walking through coastal scrub (more spiders). Huge climb out of bush and up face of first dune. Dunefields absolutely magnificent! Quite hard walking but exhilarating to be amidst such beauty. Hard on the heels and calves and very hot. Trail is fairly well marked. Sometimes there are no poles so you have to look for the tyres they used to anchor the poles. Reached the end of the dunefields at about 10.30 then through more coastal bush.
Hit the track in the farmlands at 11.00. Hundreds of tiny snails clinging to the grass about the size of this (@). Very long stretch and very hot. Stopped at old farmhouse and chicory oven. Topped up water bottles from tank on roof. Turned left off track onto trail, again through indigenous bush.Saw 6 more Loeries and Rob found a red feather. Also more Bushbuck. Eventually came out onto another road and followed this to the new huts they are building for hikers. Very nice too.





Reached the office about 13.45, piled into our cars and headed off to Hogsback for the Amatola trail the next day. Next time this is booked must make sure there is a day inbetween to catch your breath. Beautiful trail! Well worth doing.

Heather Cunningham